Project "Sooty"

Edited by andy, taken from the thread over on www.audifans.net

{joomplu:245 left}My current baby of the last four years is a 1995 Audi S2 coupe which I adore, but using it as a daily driver was not only piling the miles on, the currently shocking price of petrol in the UK forced my hand into looking for something a little more economical for my 50 miles round trip to work five day a week. This means the S2 is now a weekend toy or occasional car and I get to spend a bit more time on her.
More economy meant a TDi, and in wanting to stay with what I know of the B4 chassis Audi's, that meant an 80 TDi in either Avant or Sedan guise.
I much prefer the look of the sedan so the hunt was on. I'm a stranger to TDi's in general, but not what they are bolted into Audi wise.
I initially wanted just a scruffy work hack, nothing to look at but with good mechanicals. I found one, scruffy wasn't the word, but ohhh how that changed after a week or so when the modding bug got a grip. I just couldn't drive it with a bag on my head after only a few days.

The brief was, make it look good on a tight budget. I had a limit spend of £1200 and didn't want to go over it.
What I ultimately want it to look like, and there's no reason to say it can't be done, is to visually look like an S2 saloon (never came to the UK, only 307 ever built)

Ok, to the car itself. It was picked up on the 9th of feb from Coventry for a paltry £250. Caught the train to Tamworth, Andy (AOC chief and good friend) picked me up.
The car came without a radio, so before leaving Tamworth a trip to Halfords and back saw me buy an new RDS tuner headunit with CD-R front loader for £40. Fitted in a crack by Andy, it's not as bad as I thought it would be for £40, radio reception is fine, plays CD's no bother and the sound quality is ok, but MILES away from the Becker headunit recently fitted to my S2, but then that was £300 so you'd expect some difference.
Drive home was great, the car is quiet, VERY economical, brakes are good, engine pulls very well, clutch good, gearbox good.

The next day (monday) saw me with a day off work, so first off was to change a few interior items. The ugly four spoke steering wheel had to go, in it's place a spare 3 spoke sport wheel was put on instead. Most of the small 5mm wedge bulbs throughout the car on things like the switches, the heater controls etc were out. I've replaced all of these, every last one in the car has been replaced even if it was working or not. This means they are all the same brightness and should in theory save me having to pull stuff apart again when another one blew.
Dash binnacle bulbs were out on all but two of them. So they've all been replaced too.
The interior was in a poor condition, so the seats and carpets were vacuumed (took "three" hours) and then cleaned with a vetrella wet n dry. All the trim and dash was washed down with neat Meguiars APC and then treated to Aerospace 303 trim protectant.
A set of mats were added (ok, coupe ones, but I had them so used them)

A spare genuine used wing was given to me by Andy, it came from his recently sold 80 avant and was in emerald green. I'm also a big hater of the standard front bumper, what possessed Audi to design it looking like a speed boats hull I'll never know, so that's coming off. In it's place a spare S2 front bumper from my slightly excessive parts stash.
With that I'll have to change the headlights or I'll have four front indicators. So a set of face lifted coupe headlights will go in, with some clear indicators and the fogs in the new bumper.
I'll be colour coding the door handles and the wing mirrors, along with the black rubbing strips mid way up the doors. That leaves the rear bumper being removed and replaced with a S2 avant rear bumper recently sourced.
All above was done by myself, apart from the laser red top coat on the wing and bumper as I couldn't get the finish I wanted. £40 is what a mate wanted to do this, so he did it, rather than me doing it and always hating it.

Lastly, the wheels. I wanted alloys though. I had a set of 17" five spoke alloys that would look great, but the tyres were really past their sell by date and I'm not keen on 17" after been there with them on my S2. Though after driving this car for a while I didn't think the 17's would be that bad. The S2's suspension is SOOOO much harder than this shuggy boat 80's suspension.
So, as this is a cash saving car, I'm not about to fork out for some tyres. I have a spare set (two spare sets really) of S2 16" avus wheels with brand new tyres on them. But, 5x112 avus don't bolt to 4x108 hubs. Five stud conversion? I wasn't sure. Ideally as the car was supposed to be saving me cash, I wanted to look at other avenues first. Converters or redrilling the hubs maybe.
We'll see.

Ok, pictures so far.

This is the exterior as it was when I picked it up. Pretty faded with a few knocks and scrapes. Apart from the front driver wing (awful isn't it) they'll all repair with a little elbow grease and time. No rust anywhere else apart from that drivers wing.

{joomplu:246 left} {joomplu:247}

 



First up was to sort the inside.
Bit of hoovering, shampooing and dash trim dressing, it went from this;

{joomplu:248 left} {joomplu:250}

To this;

{joomplu:250 left} {joomplu:251}

I was missing the dash badge but they are still available to buy new, not a lot at £7 or so. I was also keeping an eye on ebay for a full length switch panel and some blanks as I needed to put in a front foglight switch and there wasn't space as it was.

{joomplu:252 left} I then tidied a few things up, jubilee clips on the windscreen washer pipes were junked and replaced with cable ties (they have a habit of popping out when they get old)
Chopped out the expanding foam that had been used to try and repair a leaky bonnet release cable grommet, it was covering half of the fusebox so I couldn't get in there to replace the dicky intermittent wiper relay (sometimes worked, sometimes didn't, leaving wipers parked anywhere they wanted)
The bonnet cable was undone at the slam panel end, new bonnet release cable grommet slipped on and moved around the cable into position in the bulkhead. That's that sorted.



The bumper and wing came back from the painters. Not bad for a favour and painted in good old two pack, none of this water based nonsense.

So the wing, bumper, headlamps, fogs, side repeaters and indicators were fitted. I also adjusted the drivers door, now has a nice easy click on shutting, rather than a clank and bang.

{joomplu:255 left} {joomplu:256 right} Next up, adjusting the door while the normally hard to get to bolt is nicely exposed.
The door had dropped, so that meant I needed to adjust the bottom hinge out. I temporarily refitted the wheel and dropped it back onto the floor, as the body is twisted with one corner in the air, no use doing this with the body twisted.
{joomplu:257}



I then started to machine polish the car, it looked three different shades of red.
A rear bumper was then sourced from an S2 Avant to continue the theme and get rid of the black plastic inserts in the standard bumper.

{joomplu:259 left} {joomplu:260 right}I'm well chuffed with the colour match of the new wing and bumper to the bonnet and the nearside wing. Well happy with it.


There was some discussion regarding the badging on the rear of the car.
A New "Audi" badge bought for the nearside, new rings for the centre and new 1.9 badge for the offside.
That left the TDi part which I thought I'd change to something a bit different.
The car certainly in no way deserves a red "i" but seeing as it's a bit more green than a usual diesel with it's veggie oil power, I thought a green "i" would look quite cool.
So I purchased a TDi red i badge in the correct font, and made the I part green.

 

 


{joomplu:261 left}The 17" alloys were put on the car- was offered four tyres, new but a budget make, for not a lot.
Still couldn't decide if I liked them though- they are polished and lacquered, and maybe a bit bling. The tyres on them were all wrong though, they are 215/40/17's where they should be 225/45/17 for a perfect rolling match to the original 195/65/15.

{joomplu:262 left} I then braved the strong winds and biting horizontal rain to remove the wing mirrors, so I could paint them. I gave them a rub over with a scotch pad, rubbed down with cellulose thinners and then primed with three coats of red primer. Finally, four top coats of Laser Red with about 20 mins in between coats. May not be the correct way to paint things, but it works for me.


{joomplu:264 left} I was given another TDi badge and thought, "Stick it on the front grille" It's funny looking at the B4 grille without it having a badge at the side.
So made a mount for it, stuck the lettering onto the mount, painted the white plastic of the mount that was showing through the lettering, satin black.
The mount was fashioned out of some white plastic material left over from when I had some UPVC windows fitted. It slots into one of the grille slats and I'll keep it in place with some JB-weld on the reverse. (note, that's just a spare front grille)


{joomplu:263 left} So far, it's turned out pretty well for a spend of around £580 "including" the car.


I then suffered with two slipped discs that saw me laid out over four days. It was the fourth time in six months and it's getting to be a pain in the arsss...e................back.

I managed to rub down and paint the S2 avant rear bumper, that in itself was is huge task for someone who knows little about painting large items like this, not to mention trying to do it while not being able to move, but the exercise did me good.

Big thanks to my bro for fitting the rear bumper while I was still laid out with two slipped discs.

Spot the difference
{joomplu:266 left} {joomplu:265}


As usual, Audi throws a curve ball.
FA (*some magic software* for you VAG guys) states that the two big alloy retainers that slot into the two holes on the rear panel, are different between S2 avant/saloon and the rest of the 80 saloon and avants. WRONG! they are the same. Apart from the black cap that pops in the end, one having a sort of rubbery skirt, the other didn't but they switch over, both alloy brackets are 100% EXACTLY the same. Even the same part number. I'd fretted about this and had sourced some if needed, then when I picked the bumper up from Andy's, was relieved they were there. Just as well I didn't go buy some new ones, they are around £50 each!
Only parts I needed to buy, were two plastic retainers that are secured to the body work on the sides. You remove the old ones, fit these and the S2 bumper secures to it with two pop rivet type plastic inserts (you can use the old ones you pull out)
To remove the old bumper, you remove two plastic pop rivet type plugs in the wheel arch, remove two lower self tappers too, remove circular cover cap in the black trim in front of the lock catch, remove the self tapper below it, remove four M10X100mm bolts in the boot floor (two either side) pull back on the bumper, go round each side and pull back and down on each corner to unclip it from the retainers and pull the whole bumper back and off.

There's a black plastic trim the runs along the top edge of the old bumper, that you need to remove and swap to the new one, it's just clipped on.
Then it's just a case of offering up new bumper, slotting the alloy brackets into the holes (slightly unbolt and they move up down left and right if needed), secure the self tapper in the centre and pop the circular cover back on, popping in and tightening down the four bolts in the boot floor and popping in the plastic rivets in the wheel arch, followed by the two lower self tappers.

{joomplu:267 left} The car was then lowered- I spotted a set of brand new Spax springs on the bay. Only problem was the seller didn't know how far of a drop they'd give.
Bid on them, won them (brand new don't forget) for £10.50. Ebay had given me a voucher for a tenner so they only cost me 50p! AOC member Alam Cudlip (V6) relayed them up the country from Bristol to Andy's in Birmingham, I then picked up from Birmingham.
Only thing was to fit them and see what the drop was. Erm, 60mm!

(Photo isn't of me- it's my brother, Paul.)
{joomplu:268 left}

Ok, five stud wheels on a four stud setup.


I decided at long last that converters just weren't going to happen. It could have been done, but at the expense of being safe in the knowledge that the car wasn't going to be overtaken by four rogue wheels that had just come loose from the hubs.

That means a five stud hub setup.
First hurdle is the rear, you can't use any S2 gear as it's FWD. I bought two rear five stud hubs from a C4 Audi 100 2.6 FWD, they fit the rear no problem, BUT! I just could not find any info anywhere of a suitable rear disc. I Wasn't going to start messing with looking at different rear callipers either.
Step forward a mate from germany who showed me his Coupe's rear setup. This route involves using 1995 - 2000 B5 A4 1.6/1.8/1.9 TDi FWD rear discs.
Beauty of these is that the disc IS the hub. The wheel bolts to the disc itself The same wheel bearings and rear ABS rings as the 80 TDi is also used on the A4. So all is required is the A4's discs, new bearings (two each disc, inner and outer) pressed in, new ABS rings heated and pressed on. That's the rear sorted.
Now the ballache that is the front.
{joomplu:269 left} This TDi uses 75mm wheel bearings on the front, the S2 front hubs press into 82mm bearings. So S2, cq20v7A or 2.8 carriers would be needed. So you fit the carriers (no need for me to worry, my struts have 14mm bolts holes) but then my TDi driveshaft won't fit, too small as they locate into smaller wheel bearings. S2 driveshafts are a no go, this 80 is FWD, meaning unequal length driveshafts even if I fitted the correct flange on the box.
Bit more head scratching. Coupe 2.8 FWD shafts would work. IF I could find any.
Step forward Mike Dewar. He kindly located two 2.8 cq front driveshafts and the plan was to remove their outer CV joints and fit them to the end of my TDi driveshafts. Lots of extremely boring internet searching and cross referencing parts, told me the end of my TDi driveshaft is 24mm in diameter and has a tooth count of 30. I've measured the size and tooth count of the 2.8 CV's and they match. The outer splines of the 2.8 CV match and fit in the S2 front hubs which were sourced from another mate.
New CV boots and a host of new bolts/nuts and washers were also sourced.

AH, brakes. Mike also grabbed the G60's from the wrecked 2.8cq, BUT, as said earlier, I was well happy with the brakes as they were on this 80, instant bite and lots of feel, WAY more feel than the Porsche 996's on the S2 as it happens. Probably down to the "no bomb" servo assistance. They fade if really pushed, but this car isn't about being pushed to within an inch of it's life. It's about the mpg on derv and veggie oil and it's looks.
So, two new 280mmx10mm solid discs have had a 5x112 pattern drilled in them. Stock setup then remains.

The A4 discs I bought off ebay came with a set of pads too, but there was a change with these, so you had to choose from one of two options. I had to cross reference part numbers between the 80 and the A4 then cross reference the correct part number needed from my chassis number to the only place I could find a picture. Luckily the pads I need are the same as those fitted to the rear of an S2, so Mikes site provided the picture I needed so I could tell the seller which pad I needed. It's all to do with the pad spring on the top.


{joomplu:270 left} Bearings pressed into the disc/hub (two per disc, inner and outer) and new ABS rings pressed onto the rear of the disc/hub.


Parts required for the conversion:

Front.

1/ S2 hubs and hub carriers complete with ABS sensors.
2/ Outer CV joints from a 2.8cq,
3/ Outer CV boot kits for a 2.8cq,
4/ New 280mm x 10mm solid front discs, re-drilled for 5x112 PCD
5/ New set of pads.

Rear.

1/ 1995 B5 A4 1.6/1.8/1.9TDi FWD rear discs (the disc IS the hub)
2/ 80/A4 inner and outer wheels bearings,
3/ 80/A4 ABS rings,
4/ New set of pads.

Procedure;

Front:

Before jacking the car up, loosen off the driveshaft retaining bolt. Jack the car up and place securely on axle stands. Remove wheel then remove the driveshaft retaining bolt. Undo pinch bolt on bottom ball joint and use a copper/hide mallet to drop the balljoint off the hub carrier. The front brake discs were relatively new so didn't have a big lip on their outer edge. This meant we could just slip the complete caliper off the discs without removing the pads. Again the pads were relatively new, so it was decided to refit them later. Removed disc, both were firmly stuck to the hub so needed a good few smacks with the mallet to get them off. Remove the three bolts securing the brake shield to the hub carrier (note the brake shield on this TDi, I had a big argument with someone a couple of years ago who said these were only ever fitted to the RS2, nope, my S2 has them too)
Pull forward on the strut/hub carrier and the outer CV will pull through the hub out of the other side. Open the bonnet, locate the two ABS sensor connections, both secured to the front of the strut towers, one behind the air box, the other behind the expansion tank. Push the cabling and connectors through the strut towers to the inside of the wheelarch.
Undo the hub carrier to strut bolts and remove the hub carrier.
Two ways of doing this next bit of removing the CV joint from the end of the driveshaft. This depends if there are two of you working on the car. As both were getting done at the same time on mine, this meant if we had used the method of tightening the hub bolt back in to push the CV off the shaft, it wouldn't have worked as both driveshafts are free to turn. We used the mallet to shock the CV joint off the shaft after peeling back the CV boot. Just a couple of sharp taps and off they came.
Remove the old CV bolt and clean up the end of the shaft.When removing the old CV's, remember to note the correct order and orientation of the dished washer and plastic thrust ring that are on the inboard side of the shaft.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, with a couple of notes to make. Check the new CV in the hub, make sure the ABS sensor isn't fouling the ABS ring, if it is, just "slightly" tap it back until the joint is free to rotate. NOT too much though. Use the grease supplied with the boot kit. Mine came with two separate packets of it, One packet for the joint and one for the boot. Use it!! Be careful when putting the new CV on the end of the shaft, don't go guns blazing with a hammer trying to whack it on. Make sure the splines are engaging BEFORE giving it a knock with the mallet to engage it over the circlip on the end of the shaft. I didn't and nearly fecked the shaft.
Once everything is reassembled, REMEMBER to torque up the driveshaft retaining bolt when the wheel is back on the ground. A tightening torque of 200nm + 90° is needed. Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes to 200nm. Scary too, thought they were going to snap at that torque!


Rear:

Make sure handbrake is off!!

Once wheel is off and car secured on stands and the front wheels chocked, use a 13mm and 15mm spanner to undo the slider pins on the caliper, the caliper can then be moved off the carrier and tie wrapped up out of the way. Remove the carrier allen bolts with an allen socket rather than a key, you don't want them rounding off. They are usually VERY tight, so use releasing spray or heat if need using caution as you do.
Once the carrier is out of the way, remove disc. In our case, again both discs were firmly stuck to the hubs, this wasn't a concern as the hub was coming off too. Remove the grease cap being careful not to dent it out of shape, it has to be refitted with a good seal, water ingress at a later date isn't good. Remove split pin, locking ring and then the hex bolt. On both sides of mine the hex bolt was only finger tight as it's supposed to be (more later), remove thrust washer and then grab the disc (or hub if your discs came off easily) and pull the hub off the stub axle. All you'll be left with is a bare hub axle.
{joomplu:272 left} Again refitting is reverse of removal with a couple of notes to make.
Clean the stub axle and apply a little high temp grease. Clean the axle backing plate, notably the ABS sensor "without" moving it.
Fit your A4 discs/hub onto the axle and refit the thrust washer and hex nut. DO NOT tighten this hard with a spanner/ratchet. tighten it enough so that the thrust washer behind can be moved with a screwdriver. Refit the locking ring, if the split pin can not be put through one of the holes in the end of the stub axle, DO NOT tighten the hex nut, back it off slightly.
After getting to the stage of refitting the caliper to the carrier, you'll need to wind the piston back in. We didn't have the correct wind back tool, but a pair of long nose pliers did the job without any fuss. Push and turn the piston clockwise back into its bore. Refit wheel.


Once the car is back on all four newly fitted five lug hubs, remember to pump the brake pedal a few times to reseat the pads front and rear. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDBRAKE ON until the pedal has gone hard indicating the pistons in each caliper are where they should be.

{joomplu:273 left} The wheels initially fitted were Porsche Cup replica's (as fitted to the RS2)

A replacement boot was fitted. The old one was a mess- dented, weird smudge marks and lots of peeling lacquer.
The doors on the car were just to far gone. The drivers door was a slightly different colour, offside rear had a massive dent, nearside rear had a crease under the mid trim and the passenger front door had had the mirror bent down at some point in the past which had dented the metal.
{joomplu:271 left} A friend of mine saw four doors on fleabay, bid on them and won, then GAVE me them FOC. Legend. Cost him £28 for four, yes £7 each. He would not take a penny. All I had to do was drive to York and pick them up. The fronts didn't come with handles, so had to use my original black ones, but no problem as I masked them up and sprayed them red. There were zero dents in the door and the paint was in great condition
I also painted the trim at the same time.
{joomplu:274 left} The exhaust was modified- real deal OEM S2 tail pipes were fitted


{joomplu:275 left} I had a slight mishap whilst putting the Avus wheels on (Original S2 fitment). On the first wheel too.
The standard jack collapsed, with my fingers between the "just" removed wheel and the wheel arch. I brok the little and third finger of my left hand. I'd just removed the wheel from the hub, exactly at the same time the jack's white plastic bit that the threaded rod passes through stripped it thread, the car came down trapping my fingers between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch. The only thing holding it up was the disc resting on the inside of the rim and the wheel arch resting on top of the tyre with my fingers in there. No one around at my dads, there on my own, so I had to pull my fingers out (hurt like holy ***k)
The car drove, but had a bad offbeat humming noise and a sound of something catching somewhere. The tyre or wheel isn't touching on anything in the arch, so it's got to be disc catching something (maybe brake shield or caliper) or something else. The wing would not repair, it was buckled to buggery, dented and twisted all over.
Yes I know, use trolley jacks and stands I hear people cry.........to simply change a wheel?? that's what the stupid bloody jack is for!
The strange noise was the brake shield rubbing.
Sooty was 99.9% finished. All that was needed to complete the S2 saloon look was the ellipsoidal projector headlamps from an RS2 or late S2 Coupe/Avant.



{joomplu:276 left}I got a bit sidetracked and bought some headlamps off german ebay. Problem was, was that were LHD.

So I converted them.
The big problem was I couldn't get inside easily, the front lense was bonded on. So I had to get creative and get in through the bottom, then plastic weld them back up. Projector lamps use a metal plate in front of the bulb to dictate the beam pattern. I needed to get to this, remove it and flip it over, moving the beam cut off from the right to the left for the UK. I used a knife blade heated up red hot to "melt" a cut all the way round. This stopped any crap getting inside.

{joomplu:277 left} I needed to slide out the plate. Luckily the plate is symmetrical, so it slid out, I turned it end on end and slid it back in.
One screw was hidden behind the adjuster bolt. I needed to make a tool. Well, my brother did!

Converting these headlamps for use in the UK is no easy task.
You need to be prepared to chop a great big hole out of the base, plastic welding it back up later and create two holes on the back for screwdriver access which also need welding back up.
If you are not much of a practical person, walk away.
Chopping the bottom off wasn't a mistake thankfully as I still needed to be able to get the beam pattern plate out, flip it round and get it back in.
{joomplu:278 left} So, how to get to the screws hidden away at the top? I had to create two holes above them so I could get a screwdriver down. Heating a screwdriver up and then melting through the case meant I could get to them.
Once they were out, the plate came out easy as that. I had to remove an area to so it matched the width of the other side when slotting it back it.
That done, the plate slotted back in and I could put the screws back in, and then plastic weld the bottom back on. It's not very pretty, but then it doesn't need to be;

I also needed to close up the two holes created on the top. Same method again, plastic welding rods and a soldering iron

{joomplu:279 left} Once fitted I realised I'd got carried away. With these fitted it wasn't going to look like the car I'd wanted it to look like from the beginning.


No problem though, I removed them and sold them.
Sold them for the amount I'd paid, it's not about making money. That meant I wasn't out of pocket too and I could get on and search for some real projectors.
They are silly money new, and hard to find secondhand. But a friend of mine in Birmingham had a set so a quick drive down saw the completion of the project.

{joomplu:280 left} Projector lamps fitted and the end of project "Sooty" {joomplu:275 right}


{joomplu:281 left} One last thing. After taking those shots I thought the rear lacked something. The tailpipes just didn't look right in black. So I removed the paint back to the stainless steel the pipes are made of. I prefer them like this.

But is it finished?

Actually- no. More tinkering.....

An EGR blanking plate was fitted- the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve does what it says on the tin. Recirculates exhaust gas back through the inlet manifold. Great for emissions, crap for economy and power. The black soot from the exhaust clogs the inlet manifold up.
My inlet manifold wasn't toooo bad, but the actual EGR valve itself was really clogged up with crap.
If I remember correctly, the EGR is working at anything below 2000rpm, above that it closes and stops the exhaust gas being routed back through the engine. With the plate in, no exhaust gas goes back through the inlet ever.
{joomplu:282 left} A set of bevelled chrome binnacle rings were ordered and fitted {joomplu:283 right}

There was also an attempt at retrofitting the mini check so that the trip computer could be fitted, with mpg readouts. That and an outside temperature display.

Seems Sooty hasn't got a wire I need in the loom. Fuel consumption wire is the offender.

Story so far.

Got the minicheck/board computer unit off Matt, studying the PDF file, you remove/solder jumper wires so as to configure the BC for whatever model/engine size it's going into.
This is going into a stinker, so I needed to remove all jumper wires as the diagram on the front of the BC tells you.
That done, it was out to the car, whip steering wheel off, remove cowl, whip the clacks out where I could remove the old minicheck unit.
New unit just fits straight on and you need to clip the fuel pot to the back of the fuel gauge.
All easy stuff.
I'd already previously installed the stalk with the BC controls on the end and tied off the wiring behind ready for the final install.
Now I've got to drop the driver tray down to locate a black connector with either a yellow or yellow/green wire, so I can tap into it with a lone yellow wire that comes from the stalks little loom.
Found the connector, but it ain't got no yellow or yellow/green wire going into OR coming away from it.
I did locate one yellow/green wire, but it was in another smaller black connector and I ain't going to tap into it if I'm unsure of what it's for and where it goes to/comes from. Although it's a black connector, it's not the one I've seen in a couple of pictures, one of those said pictures is clear enough to show a part number on it, which corresponds to the connector where I've got no yellow or yellow/green wire.

Now where that flippin wire?????

Pin 9 on the ECU connector is the fuel consumption wire.
Whoo hoo,

NOT!

It was only from 1994 onwards. Just whipped the ECU out and I can confirm there is NO PIN 9 in the 1Z ECU upto 1994.
No fuel consumption output from a pre 1994 1Z ECU.
I have a later model ECU spare (1995), but I'd need a later MAF too AND airbox. AND then it'd need some pins switching around too.

This is twice this damn ECU has stopped me from doing something. Cruise control and now the BC.

{joomplu:284 left} {joomplu:285 right}This 80 never had a dash panel on the passenger side. Just the recess for the badge fitted to whichever model, ie Coupe, Audi 80, quattro, Audi 90, competition, sport edition etc etc.
I'm not keen on the competition badge I have on the dash.
I want a panel on the dash.
I had an old zebrano (truely awful fake wood thing) dash trim from ions ago that came from my first ever Coupe, it had a scratch when I bought it off my dad so I replaced it way back.
I'took said zebrano trim covered it with some carbon effect vinyl (not cheapy crap) and fitted it to my dash.
As easy as, make a template, drill the dash and fit it.
Recess for badge (which all models have, it's covered by the dash panel in a car that came with panels from the factory)



Next little bit of tinkering.

Ambient temp display retrofit.
I'm not a newbie to this after myself and Paulgo completely retrofitted it to his 3B S2 Coupe last year.
It was an optional extra on every model until around 1993 where it came as standard fit on the S2 Coupe and Avant (and of course the RS2 always had it 94 -96).
I miss not having it in this car after being used to it in my S2 for five years.
The actual display has had a few revisions, but what's interesting (to me) is that there has been at least four variations of pcb's inside the unit itself on the last and final part.
I've only ever come across "4A0" parts before when I've had them in to replace the duff bulbs that go on them, but I've just bought another to fit to the stinker.
It's a very early one with it's part number starting "893".
{joomplu:286 left} {joomplu:287 right}The one huge difference apart from it's overall shape, is that it's made by VDO rather than all the later ones being made by another german company called Borg (not the Star Trek borg!)
On having a look inside, it's still on it's original illumination bulb (VERY different to the later ones), which believe me, is a big thing with one of these.
Everyone who has ever had a car with one of these will tell you the illumination goes after a while because it's on all the time the ignition is. Once the bulb pops, no more display on some versions, others you can see the temp on a night, but not during the day.


The sensor is located behind the bumper, up out of the way.
Andy managed to source some front door cards- from the corduroy type finish
{joomplu:288 left}
to some Jacquard trim ones
{joomplu:289 left}


{joomplu:290 left}Also, due to the additional gauges, rather than retrofit the lower dash trim panel with these fitted (low down where they can't be seen easily) Another option is from Germany- the three centre vents are replaced with a metal housing that will hold 3 "standard" auxilliary gauges

I also changed the illumination on the headunit to match the rest of the car (originally blue, now red)

{joomplu:291 left} Also, it's bugs me that the interior lighting in this car is dire. Why has it just got the one interior light in the front centre?? Why no rear light??
Why do that Audi? Did you think all B4 80 TDi drivers where some sort of owl-people??
I used a normal rear Coupe one to fit; I checked depth would be ok, measured the size I would need, marked onto a piece of stiff card and went out to mark the correct position with a small pen mark.
Used a black CD marker to mark area around the card to have hole cut out........................then realised I'd marked the roof the wrong side of the area I'd first marked!
Balls, got a nice black marker box on the rear of the roof lining now- Allie's nail varnish remover to the rescue. Luckily it came out.

{joomplu:292 left} I also love the three spoke sport airbag wheel in my S2, so much so, one now resides in the soot monster.
MASSIVE thanks to John (Smith_S2 on audifans.net) for the wheel, stalks and cowling's.
A pretty involved job with a bit of head scratching. But as you guys will by now know, it'll take a bit more than this to stop me getting something not designed for the soot monster, to work. Well to at least fit, in this case the airbag will obviously never work.

The wheel, cowling and other parts need to be changed to get it to fit.

Is this the last update on Sooty?
Hopefully not....

{joomplu:293 detail}